Grigri vs ATC: Which is the best belay device?

Grigri vs ATC Which is best? Rock climbing is a thrilling and challenging sport that requires skill, technique, and equipment. Belay devices are essential equipment for rock climbing, as they control the rope when belaying a climber. Two of the most popular types of belay devices are the Grigri and the ATC. In this article, we’ll compare their pros and cons to help you decide which is best for your needs.

Table of Contents

Intro

The Grigri is a popular belay device used in rock climbing and other related activities. It is an assisted braking device that automatically locks onto the rope when it is under tension, providing added safety and control in lead climbing situations. Some situations where a Grigri may be the best choice include

The ATC, or Air Traffic Controller, is a popular belay device used in rock climbing and other related activities. It is a type of manual braking device that requires the belayer to control the rope using their hands. Some situations where an ATC may be the best choice include:

Grigri vs ATC Comparison

Feature	Grigri	ATC
Mechanism	Assisted braking	Manual braking
Weight	Heavier	Lighter
Ease of use	Requires more technique and practice	Easier to use for beginners
Cost	More expensive	Less expensive
Versatility	Better for lead climbing and gym use	More versatile for different types of climbing
Safety	Can be safer in certain situations, but can also lead to bad habits	Requires more attention and technique, but can promote better habits

Grigri vs ATC: Differences and Similarities

The Grigri and ATC are both popular belay devices used in rock climbing and share some similarities, but they also have some significant differences that are worth considering when choosing which device to use.

Similarities:

Both devices are used for belaying in rock climbing.
Both devices can be used for top rope and lead climbing.
Both devices require proper technique and training to use safely.
Both devices require a locking carabiner to attach to the climbing rope.
Both devices are made by Petzl, a leading manufacturer of climbing gear.

Differences:

The Grigri has an assisted braking mechanism that automatically locks onto the rope when tension is applied, while the ATC is a manual braking device that requires the belayer to control the rope using their hands.
The Grigri is generally considered to be a more advanced device that requires more technique and practice to use correctly, while the ATC is a simpler device that is easier for beginners to learn and use.
The Grigri is generally heavier and bulkier than the ATC, which can make it more cumbersome to carry and use.
The Grigri is more expensive than the ATC, which can be a factor for climbers on a budget.
The Grigri can be used with a wider range of rope diameters than the ATC, which is limited to a narrower range of rope sizes.

Grigri vs ATC: Which is Safer for Climbing?

Both the Grigri and ATC can be safe belay devices when used properly, but there are some differences in their safety features and how they are used that are worth considering.

The Grigri’s assisted braking mechanism is designed to automatically lock onto the rope when it is under tension, providing added safety and control in lead climbing situations. This means that in the event of a fall, the device will automatically lock onto the rope and prevent the climber from falling very far. However, it is still important for the belayer to hold the brake hand on the device and be ready to give a soft catch, as the Grigri’s assisted braking mechanism is not foolproof and can still fail if used improperly. Additionally, the Grigri requires more technique and practice to use correctly, especially when it comes to feeding out rope smoothly while belaying.

The ATC is a manual braking device, meaning that the belayer must control the rope using their hands. While this requires more attention and skill than using a device like the Grigri, it can also provide more control and allow for a softer catch. With proper technique, an experienced belayer can provide a very safe and controlled belay using an ATC. However, the ATC does not have an assisted braking mechanism, so the belayer must be very attentive and ready to lock off the rope in the event of a fall.

When to use: Grigri vs Atc

Grigri

Lead climbing: The Grigri is an excellent choice for lead climbing because it offers added safety and control. Lead climbing involves the climber leading the way up the route and placing protection (such as bolts or cams) as they go. The belayer uses the Grigri to control the rope and assist in preventing falls.
Sport climbing: Sport climbing involves climbing routes with pre-placed bolts for protection. The Grigri is a great choice for sport climbing because it offers added safety and control and is easy to use. It is also well-suited for catching falls in sport climbing, where falls are more common due to the higher level of difficulty.
Gym climbing: The Grigri is a popular choice for gym climbing because it is easy to use and offers added safety and control. Gym climbing involves climbing in an indoor gym with pre-placed bolts for protection. The Grigri’s assisted braking mechanism can be especially useful in gym climbing situations where the climber may be tired or prone to making mistakes.
Heavy climbers or thin ropes: The Grigri can be a good choice for heavier climbers or when using a thinner rope because its assisted braking mechanism takes some of the load off the belayer’s hands, allowing for smoother and more controlled belaying.

Atc

Top-roping: The ATC is an excellent choice for top-roping because it is easy to use and offers good control. Top-roping involves a climber being anchored at the top of the climb and the rope being fed through an anchor and back down to the belayer. The belayer uses the ATC to control the rope as the climber ascends.
Multi-pitch climbing: Multi-pitch climbing involves climbing a route that is longer than a single pitch, meaning it cannot be climbed in a single rope length. The ATC is a great choice for multi-pitch climbing because it is lightweight and easy to carry. Additionally, because multi-pitch climbs often involve long periods of belaying, a device that is easy to use and not too taxing on the belayer’s hands is important.
Trad climbing: Trad climbing involves placing gear (such as nuts, cams, or hexes) into the rock for protection instead of relying on pre-placed bolts. The ATC is a good choice for trad climbing because it is versatile and can be used with different types of ropes and gear.
Beginner climbers: The ATC is an excellent choice for beginners because it is easy to use and offers good control. It is a manual braking device, meaning the belayer must control the rope using their hands. This can help beginners develop proper belay technique and learn how to control the rope.

Belaying with Grigri vs ATC: Pros and Cons

Grigri Pros:

Assisted braking: The Grigri’s assisted braking mechanism automatically locks onto the rope when it is under tension, providing added safety and control in lead climbing situations.
Easier on the hands: The Grigri’s assisted braking mechanism takes some of the load off the belayer’s hands, making it easier to hold a fall or lower a climber.
Works well with thinner ropes: The Grigri’s assisted braking mechanism makes it easier to belay with thinner ropes, which can be more difficult to control with a manual braking device like the ATC.

Grigri Cons:

Heavier and bulkier: The Grigri is heavier and bulkier than the ATC, which can make it less convenient to carry around.
More expensive: The Grigri is more expensive than the ATC, which can be a factor for budget-conscious climbers.
Requires more technique and practice: The Grigri requires more technique and practice to use correctly, especially when it comes to feeding out rope smoothly while belaying.

ATC Pros:

Lightweight and compact: The ATC is lightweight and compact, making it easy to carry around and convenient for multi-pitch climbs.
Cheaper: The ATC is less expensive than the Grigri, which can be a factor for budget-conscious climbers.
Versatile: The ATC can be used with different types of ropes and gear, making it a good choice for trad climbing and other types of climbing where the route is not pre-bolted.

ATC Cons:

Manual braking: The ATC is a manual braking device, meaning the belayer must control the rope using their hands, which can be more taxing on the hands and requires more attention and skill.
Less control: The ATC provides less control than the Grigri in lead climbing situations, where the climber may fall and the belayer needs to quickly lock onto the rope to prevent a dangerous fall.
Can be more difficult with thinner ropes: The ATC can be more difficult to control with thinner ropes, which can be a factor for climbers using thinner ropes for weight savings or other reasons.

Grigri vs ATC: Other Factors to Consider

In addition to the pros and cons listed above, there are a few other factors to consider when deciding between the Grigri and the ATC.

Weight and Size: The Grigri is generally heavier and bulkier than the ATC, which may be a downside for climbers who are looking to pack light. However, some climbers find that the extra weight and size of the Grigri provides a more comfortable and stable belaying experience.

Climbing Style: Your climbing style may also play a role in determining which device is best for you. If you’re a sport climber who mainly climbs on single-pitch routes, the Grigri may be the better choice. However, if you’re a traditional climber who often climbs on multi-pitch routes, the ATC may be the better option.

Personal Preference: At the end of the day, the best belay device for you will depend on your personal preferences. Some climbers love the ease and security of the Grigri, while others prefer the versatility and simplicity of the ATC. Ultimately, the best way to decide which device is right for you is to try them both out and see which one you feel most comfortable with.

Frequently Asked Question:

Can you use Grigri for trad climbing?

Yes, Grigri can be used for trad climbing, but it is not the preferred device because it can be heavier and bulkier than ATC.

Can you use ATC for sport climbing?

Yes, ATC can be used for sport climbing, and it is the preferred device for many climbers because it is more versatile and affordable than Grigri.

What is the weight difference between Grigri and ATC?

Grigri is generally heavier and bulkier than ATC, which can be a downside for climbers who are looking to pack light.

Which device is more affordable, Grigri or ATC?

ATC is generally more affordable than Grigri.

Is Grigri worth the extra cost?

It depends on personal preferences and climbing style. Grigri provides more control and safety when belaying, but it is also more expensive than ATC.

Which belay device do professional climbers prefer, Grigri or ATC?

Professional climbers use both devices, depending on the type of climbing and personal preferences. However, Grigri is more commonly used for single-pitch sport climbing, while ATC is more commonly used for trad and multi-pitch climbing.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the Grigri and the ATC are both excellent belay devices that have their own pros and cons. The Grigri is an auto-locking device that provides more control when belaying, but it can be more difficult to use and is generally more expensive. The ATC is a more versatile device that’s easier to use and less expensive, but it does not have the auto-locking feature of the Grigri. Ultimately, the best device for you will depend on your personal preferences and climbing style. Take the time to try out both devices and choose the one that feels most comfortable and secure for you. Remember, safety should always be your top priority when climbing, so make sure you choose a belay device that you trust and feel confident using.

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